RV Manuals

New RV owner: The systems, in the order to learn them

Nine systems, one order. A coach rarely fails all at once, and it is easier to learn when you take them in the order they can hurt you.

The short version: shore power first, because it is the one that can kill. Then the 12-volt side, because a weak battery imitates almost every other fault. Then water in, then waste, then propane and heat. The extras come last, and the inverter can wait until you have used the coach twice.

What you actually bought: Nine systems, and what each is for

Every system below is a separate document in the manuals section, and each one has its own way of failing. Knowing what a system does when it is working is what lets you read a symptom later, and it is the one thing a fault guide cannot supply, because a fault guide starts from something that has already broken.

SystemWhat it does when it is workingWhen it breaks
Shore power and the 120-volt sideBrings 120 volts in from the pedestal and feeds the outlets, the air conditioner, the microwave and the water heater's electric element.Outlets not working
The 12-volt house systemRuns the lights, the water pump, the furnace fan, the fridge's control board and the slide-outs, all off the house battery.12-volt faults
The battery and its chargingKeeps the house battery full from shore power through the converter, and charges it from the engine while you drive.Converter not charging
Fresh waterCity water through the inlet, or the tank and its pump, out to every tap, the toilet and the shower.Water and plumbing documents
WasteHolds what the sinks, the shower and the toilet send it, until you dump it into a sewer connection.Tank and sanitation documents
The water heaterHeats water on propane or on 120 volts, into a tank that has to be full before either one is switched on.Water heater not heating
Propane and the fridgeCooks, and runs the absorption fridge on propane when there is no hookup, though the fridge's board still needs 12 volts to decide anything.Fridge not cooling
Heat and coldThe furnace warms the coach in winter and the air conditioner cools it in summer. Both are the largest draws on the coach, and the furnace will not light at all without enough 12-volt power to spin its blower and close the sail switch.Furnace not working
The extrasSolar, a generator and an inverter are three more ways to make or move power, none of which a first trip depends on.Solar not charging

The order to learn them, and why

The order below is not alphabetical and it is not the order a maker's manual lists them in. It runs from the system that can injure you, through the one that imitates all the others, to the ones you can safely leave until you have slept in the coach a few nights.

First: shore power, because it is the one that hurts

The 120-volt side is the only part of a coach that can kill you, and it is also the first thing you connect, so it gets learned first. What to know before your first hookup: the pedestal is somebody else's wiring, a breaker on the pedestal is what you switch rather than the plug, and a coach with a wiring fault can put voltage on its own skin. The outlets and GFCI guide covers the chain from the pedestal inward, including why a GFCI will not reset and what hot skin is.

Second: 12 volts, because it imitates everything else

Half the coach runs on 12 volts, and a battery that is low makes the pump weak, the furnace fan slow and the fridge's board unhappy, so a voltage problem gets misread as three different faults. Learning this system second means you stop chasing the wrong part before you start. The 12-volt guide has the layout and the voltage drop test; the battery care guide covers what keeps a bank healthy, and the converter guide covers what charges it.

Third: water in, then water out

Two systems that share a set of pipes and a set of habits. Water in is city water or the tank and its pump, and water out is two tanks and a valve. Learn them in that order because the fresh side is where you will first notice a leak, and because every fault on the waste side is a smell or a reading rather than a flood. The water and plumbing documents are the maker's own, and the winterising guide doubles as the map of where the water actually sits.

Fourth: propane, heat and the fridge

Propane is the one fuel you can learn by smell, and the furnace and the fridge are its two biggest consumers. Two things are worth knowing before the first cold night: how the furnace proves itself safe to light, and that an absorption fridge needs the coach close to level to work at all. The furnace guide carries the carbon monoxide hard stop, and the fridge guide explains why level matters.

Fifth: the extras, and what can wait

Solar, a generator and an inverter are all ways of making or moving power, and none of them is needed to spend a first weekend at a hookup. When one of them stops working, solar and the generator both have their own guide, and both begin by checking two things before anything is tested.

Where the two electrical halves meet

Two systems share one battery and one ground, and almost every confusing electrical symptom comes from that arrangement. 120 volts arrives at the pedestal and goes to the outlets, the air conditioner and any heating element. The converter turns some of that into 12 volts to charge the battery. Everything else runs off the battery at 12 volts.

Several components touch both halves, and that is where a fault crosses from one to the other: the converter, which turns 120 into 12; an inverter, if one is fitted, which turns 12 back into 120; and every appliance with a 120-volt element and a 12-volt board, which is the fridge in its electric mode, a dual-fuel water heater, and the air conditioner's controls.

120 volts Pedestal, outlets, air conditioning 12 volts Lights, pump, furnace, slide-outs, fridge board Converter 120 in, 12 out. Appliances with both touch both halves too
The two halves of a coach's electrical system, and the components that touch both: a converter, an inverter where one is fitted, and anything with a 120-volt element and a 12-volt board.

Your first night plugged in

  1. Level and stabilise the coach first. Slides, and the water system, and an absorption fridge all want the coach level, and the fridge has a published limit: Norcold builds its absorption units to run within 3 degrees off level side to side and 6 front to back, and past that the cooling system can be damaged.
  2. Look at the pedestal before you plug in. Breaker off, and look at the socket for scorching or a loose fit.
  3. Connect, then switch the pedestal breaker on, so nothing is arcing while you hold the plug.
  4. Check the coach's own breaker panel for anything tripped, and switch the converter on if it has its own switch.
  5. Confirm the battery is charging by watching its voltage rise over a few minutes rather than by trusting a light.
  6. Water next, on city water with a pressure regulator, or off the tank and the pump. Open a tap and let it run before you trust the hot side.
  7. Fill the water heater before you switch it on, on either fuel. Firing an empty tank is the mistake that costs the most on a first trip.
  8. Propane last, opening the valve slowly, and if you smell it, shut it off and find out why before anything is lit.
  9. Light the stove before the furnace or the water heater. A line that has been shut off holds air, and a furnace that tries to light into air burns one of its three ignition attempts before it locks out. A burner on the stove pushes the air through in a few seconds, and it is the one propane appliance you can watch light.

What to leave off on the first night: the air conditioner until you know the coach's amperage and what the pedestal can give, and the water heater's electric element until you know the tank is full.

The manual you got, and the manual you need

The manual in the drawer covers the coach. It rarely covers the appliances inside it well, because those are other makers' equipment, and it often covers several model years at once. Every appliance maker publishes its own document, and that is the one with the wiring diagram, the fault codes and the part numbers: find the label inside or behind each appliance for its model number, then open it in the manuals section, which links each document at the maker rather than rehosting it. If you do not know who made something, the brand list covers 44 coach makers and how far back each one's archive reaches.

What is safe to ignore for now

Go deeper

Each system above has its own document set in the manuals section, and the fault guides are organised the same way: one page per symptom, each one citing the documents it rests on, and each one starting with the checks that cost nothing. The guide index is the whole set in one place, including the weight and towing material and the winter set.